So now we know that not all labels are created equal. For producers, where is it worth spending your time to get certified? And for consumers, which parts of the process of getting raw fibre into finished product are worth labeling? As in many things, it all comes down to where you think things need to change.

(If you missed Part 1 of “Looking at Labels,” you can read that here!)

For consumers, the world of product labels is confusing enough without starting to parse which parts of the process are covered and which aren’t by any one label. Remember when we said that labels function like a moral short-cut? A kind of signal that lets ethically-conscious consumers direct their purchasing power toward products and companies who demonstrate value alignment? If we accept that labels are a way to fly a values flag so your people can find you, how do we as producers ensure that our certification is actually doing what we want it to do? Are there some labels that punch above their weight?

For many of us who have gone the certification route, we’ve had to make decisions about which certifications we pursue based on the things we prioritize for our own farms. For me, it’s been animal welfare (AWA). And while I absolutely treasure this certification, recently I’ve become uncomfortably aware that my AWA label only addresses one part of the problem — a significant part but just a part. I’ve been wrestling with what I should do next. . . If I’m going to run my flag up the pole, how can I ensure it’s doing as much good as possible?

You Can’t Get There From Here

Unfortunately, when it comes to certification labels, there isn’t a “one-size-fits-all” option, really. Most don’t certify the full scope of any one operation — generally only a specific product, process or origin. As a result, certifications and their labels become a kind of layered patchwork and for both producers and consumers, working through where the best value lies can get really. . . tricky.

All this got me thinking . . . Agriculture is staring down a range of systemic and integrated problems — soil degradation, biodiversity and habitat loss, animal welfare failures, labour exploitation, aging farmers, lack of investment, ongoing consolidation and murky supply chains. While certifications and labels won’t solve all of the problems facing us, these programs can help us form a plan of attack. Labels may help sharpen our aim.

Might it be possible — be still my beating heart — to address some of the problems that currently exist in agriculture, and bring the public along, by making use of labels? What if certification was scaled to change the system? (Note: The link provided focuses on international development. I thought it was relevant given that these agencies are often concerned with some of the same problems that beset agriculture – lack of or unstable funding; environmental, cultural and social factors; and sector volatility.)

From the reading I’ve been doing, it seems like there are basically four types of certifications — shall we unpack? We shall.

Four Levels of Certification

Let’s take a look at what they are and when we get to the end, we’ll have a better understanding of the territory they’re covering — and where the gaps may be. Wherever possible, I’ll link to the certifying agency directly and I encourage you to follow those rabbit trails — they may lead you to exciting places!

I. Level 1: Attribute Certification

An attribute certification might include things like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or the OEKO-TEX standards. In a general way, certifications like these cover things like chemical residues, dyes, any restricted substances or processing inputs. In yarn terms, processing inputs might mean things like superwash while restricted substances can include heavy metals used in some dyes or PFAS (often called “forever chemicals”) used for waterproofing.

The objective for this level of certification is to ensure consumer safety. They’re about the manufacturing process, not mitigating environmental impacts. By the time these labels show up on a tag at a retail level, those decisions have been long-since made. Neither consumers nor producers/processors can influence systems-related issues by looking for these labels.

II. Level 2: Welfare Certification

O now we’re getting close to my beating heart! Some examples of Welfare Certifications include our very own A Greener World’s Certified Animal Welfare Approved. Others you may have heard of include “Certified Humane.”

These certifications generally cover things like stocking density (how many animals in one place); infrastructure essentials like shelter/water/food quality; access to veterinary care; handling standards; transportation and slaughter (if applicable) and an animal’s ability to demonstrate natural behaviours. With these certifications, consumers can be reasonably confident that the suffering often associated with industrial farming is not a factor. However, as laudable as these may be, the labels do not necessarily consider soil function or overgrazing, biodiversity or labour standards. (**Just a quick note: Providence Lane Homestead is certified Animal Welfare Approved by AGW — for five years now, hooray! — and AGW’s Certified Regenerative does build off its welfare framework in addition to the ecosystem metrics. More on that certification to come.)

III. Level 3: Fibre-Specific Certification

These are labels that specifically pinpoint textile production. Certification programs like the Responsible Wool Standard include animal welfare and land management in their criteria. Additionally, these fibre-specific labels include traceability and transparency — the paper trail — that allows consumers to track the wool being used from farm to finished. Created primarily as a tool to eliminate mulesing from the wool supply chain (if you want to know more about mulesing and its origins, feel free to do your own research but be warned, it is a gnarly and graphic trail to follow. If you’re at all sensitive about animal welfare, be careful. And please know that this is not a practice here in Canada), these standards integrate both a land-based as well as a welfare criteria for certification.

IV. Level 4: Whole-System Certification

This is where we start to dig into the entire system of agriculture, from field to closet or field to plate. These certifications have been specifically designed to incorporate every part of the value chain. When consumer’s find and choose these labels, this is where purchasing really can become power.

For these certifications, things like soil health, animal welfare and social responsibility are holistically evaluated. Some of the certifications in this tier include the Regenerative Organic Alliance, Demeter International and Certified Regenerative by AGW. This is where agriculture can shift from minimum standards (the floor) to repairing systems (the ceiling).

By recognizing that farm systems are intricately woven together with multiple essential strands, these certifications validate a “whole systems” view of agriculture. They understand that —

Healthy soil supports healthy forage, healthy forage supports healthy animals, healthy animals support excellent food and fibre quality and excellent food and fibre support viable communities and livelihoods.

From the Fenceline

Making the choice to get certified or to find certified goods can be a game-changer for both sides of the exchange. For producers, certification allows us to find our people, the folks who are willing to take the time and invest in us and our work. While this community may be small (at least initially), in my experience they are also passionate and very supportive. These are the people who will see you through when things aren’t going as planned.

For consumers, when you discover someone doing the work you love with materials you can really have faith in, it’s like finding your way home — like walking through a door and belonging, no explanation required. Labels are just the welcome mat, a sign of what you’ll find beyond the threshold.

Not every producer can get certified, I realize. In a country as vast as Canada, certification isn’t always available, particularly when on-the-ground in-person audits are an essential part of the annual process. Still, for those of us who can get certified, it’s a great idea to look at the various options and figure out not just which ones we can achieve but also which ones will help us change the future of Canadian farming.

And who knows? Maybe, with a little bit of judicious labeling, we can put the “culture” back into Ag.

This is a Living post, a post to share my thought processes, my experience and the philosophy that underpins our activities here at the homestead. It is not a how-to, “expert advice” or meant to reflect a wider experience than just my own, on my farm, here with my sheep.